Tutorial: lined sleeveless bodice with no hand sewing

This week, I’ve been working Lekala 4276 as part of the Fall For Cotton sewalong.  Yes, I’ll use any excuse to do some guilt-free garment sewing from a quilting cotton, and I was so super happy with how my last Lekala turned out, I wanted to try another, and this one looked pretty cute and retro inspired.

This one is coming together much faster than the previous one, and I am hoping to have it finished and blogged tomorrow.  Now that I’ve got some Lekala experience under my belt, the instructions aren’t quite as hard to muddle through (though still kind of weird- like when they tell you to “fold” or “overstitch” that doesn’t always means what you might initially assume), and I was so impressed by their lined sleeveless bodice method, I thought I’d do up a quick tutorial.

It’s such a super easy and efficient way to put together a lined bodice with NO hand stitching, that I kind of feel like I’m having a serious memory issue for not remembering coming across this method before, so apologies if this is old hat, but I thought it was pretty nifty.

This method is for a lined sleeveless bodice with a center back zip.

You will need
Bodice front and bodice front lining pieces, with side darts sewn
Bodice back and bodice back lining pieces
Needles, thread, pins… nothing special.

1. Right sides together, sew bodice front to bodice front lining at neckline and armhole.  Leave side seam and shoulder seam open.  Press, clip curves, flip right side out, and press.
2. Do the same with each back piece.

You should have 1 front bodice and 2 back bodice pieces with nice clean necklines and arm holes

3. Flip the back pieces inside out, and slide them over the bodice front shoulders.  Line up the raw edges of your shoulders, pin, sew, press, and flip it all right side out again

Make sure the side seams of the bodice front and bodice back shoulders butt right up against each other, or they won’t line up exactly when you’re done.

Ta-da!!
I have a tiny bit of “overhang”, but not enough to bug me on a casual dress

4. Complete the side seams.  This method is fairly standard, but I know it confused me the first time I ran into it, so I thought I’d include it.  On each side of the bodice, pin right sides together bodice front and back and bodice lining front and back.  It should be a straight line for each side of the bodice.

If you look at it from the right sides after pinning, it will look something like this.

5.  Sew each side as 1 straight seam.  Press, flip down the bodice, press some more.

6. You’re done!  Admire you’re finished armholes and neckline, and rejoice in not having to hand sew a bit of it!

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6 thoughts on “Tutorial: lined sleeveless bodice with no hand sewing

  1. This is a common way to finish a menswear vest. It’s so fun and magical!

    Love the fabrics of your dress! Sky blue & orange is one of my favorite color combinations. =)

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